They are about to pop up everywhere these days – Oktoberfests. This Germanism is as Bavarian as it gets – the reminiscence of the then future-king Ludwig I of Bavaria’s October wedding to Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen. Even the venue to which the citizens of Munich were invited is the same historical site today – the Theresienwiese (Therese’s meadow), named that in honor of the bride. The fest was such a success, that a year later, in 1811, an agricultural exhibit was added, and ever since, the event grew in size and in visitors.
For many Americans, the Munich Oktoberfest is a festival on their bucket list. I have never been to any, except to an Oktoberfest over here – and it was not nearly what a German expects. First of all, it was an indoor event. The food was sad. There was oompah music, there were dachshund races, and there was Schuhplattler dancing. If you are not familiar with this Tyrolean and Upper Bavarian dance, here is an example:
Beerfest music anywhere in Germany, these days, includes American music and German pop hits. There are dachshund races for enthusiasts in Germany, but as far as I know, they are separate occasions and wouldn’t be included in the Octoberfest. And I’m not sure whether there are dance groups at the Octoberfest in Munich, either. Of course, times change.
Why did I never visit the Munich Oktoberfest back in the day? Because my hometown had two giant beerfests, the Cannstatter Volksfest (prounce ‘cunn-shtutter ‘follx-fest, meaning Cannstatt people’s festival) in fall and the Frühlingsfest (pronounce ‘froo-lings-fest, meaning spring fest) in spring. The former is the older one. It was established as a thanksgiving festival in 1818 and has been celebrated each and every year since then, except during the two World Wars. The Indonesian volcano Tambora had exploded in 1815, and its gases and ashes travelled around the world, causing famines for years because of “year(s) without a summer”. Imagine the relief when there finally were harvests again!
I grew up with these two Stuttgart beerfests. The Cannstatter Volksfest in fall used to last three weeks, starting at the end of September. There were huge beer tents; it was a tradition for us to check where entire oxen roasted on huge rotisserie grills, back in the day. There were fairground rides galore, including a giant Ferris wheel. There were biergartens and food stands. There was a hucksters’ village. And there was an entire French section which later was changed to an Alpine village. As a kid, I loved the rides, of course, whereas the beer tents were mostly filled with noise and cigarette stench. The latter belongs to the past, of course. I had my last ride at the Volksfest with who would become my future husband barely two years later. We watched some incredible fireworks that ended that festival night. Our wedding was preceded as well as followed by visiting the spring festival with our wedding guests, depending on when they arrived. So, if not the Munich Octoberfest experience, they at least got an approximate one.
Did I say that you never have to pay any admission to these German beerfests? In case you go, enjoy them to the full. As to me, I came to love the smalltown ones so much better. Those without the rides and huge beer tents at a fairground. Those that are integrated into the streets of the town. The greater intimacy and the special town vibe work even better for me. And who knows? There even might be some dancing, after all.
I had wondered about that when we were living in West Germany in the town of Zwiebrucken. They had one Gasthaus and there was nothing special going on there. In the next town 10KM away they had some doings but nothing as I expected. A small gathering in the town square is all I recall from there. Our very nice German friends that lived there brought us some treats but then she always did that. As did our immediate neighbors that lived next to our driveway.
I recall fireworks but they seemed to be used on other occasions throughout the year as well. So no costumes, no large beer tents. I was a little disappointed. That was in 1972.
I love all the articles you post, besides being enlightening they are often entertaining as well.
Thank you so much for your kind words, Joan, and for sharing this.
Fireworks in Germany are actually quite restricted. Unless it’s New Year’s Eve, there are none without special license, say at a Lichterfest. 4th of July also had fireworks on the American bases.
Mind that Stuttgart’s and Munich’s Oktoberfest have a different cause than the harvesting fests all around the smaller towns, like Zweibruecken. Costume is rarely worn in Germany; the Dirndl and Lederhosen cliché is one of Bavaria, and usually either on festive occasions or in specific businesses as, e.g. the gastronomy.
Also, tents are rarely set up in German towns. It’s open air festivities, except the vendor stalls, of course … Even at Christmas markets, you find yourself exposed to whatever the weather might be.
We actually lived in Herbiitzheim. A small town
Herbitzheim – had to look that one up. Explains the one Gasthof … 😉