Life is short. And if you want to fill it to the brim with the good stuff, make a bucket list of things that you are capable of doing or achieving. When I came over here almost eleven years ago, my husband had told me to come up with a list of places that I wanted to see here in Washington State. I cannot tell you how grateful I have been for this inspiration and how many unforgettable moments we have created together due to this list. One of the items on there were the Palouse Falls. Palouse, by the way, is French for “land with short and thick grass“. Little did I know what stories unravel once you are there.
Last weekend, we drove out to the Palouse Falls after we had spent the night in Moses Lake. The landscape that we drove through was incredibly impressive – desert, pastures, canyons, rivers, all topped by a sky with fierce, dark clouds. The road in the State Park leads you right to a parking lot above a view point of the fall. And what a landscape you find there – breathtaking!
First of all, the biggest Palouse Fall has created a pretty circular hole in the rocky high plateau, and the river winds itself through a curved canyon that is so steep and deep that you fight vertigo just looking down. There is a viewing point a little offside that offers an even better view. It is named after geologist Roald H. Fryxell, who played a huge role in Washington’s geological finds in the sixties and early seventies. Among others, he found a novel explanation for the near-perfect preservation of wood at the Gingko Petrified Forest near Vantage, where he was employed as a superintendent early in his career.
Another of Fryxell’s accomplishments was to prove that glacial floods were the cause for Eastern Washington’s scablands. The Palouse river is a remnant of these glacial floods, and its carved canyon is proof for what created many of the – now dry – canyons in the area. While exploring the river canyon, down near the confluence with the Snake River, Fryxell found the Marmes Rock Shelter with bones and artifacts 10,000 to 12,000 years old, older than any finds in the western hemisphere till then. Unfortunately, the dam that had been built to protect the site from water broke, and the cave was flooded before the excavation was complete. Fryxell did so much more in his very short life span – I’m glad the overlook is named for him, because this man alone is legendary.
Back to the falls, though. My husband and I went all along the paths that have been worn around the central, massive fall with its height of 198 feet (it is debated whether it’s not a few feet less, by the way, but does it matter?!). There are some paths that lead into the canyon, but there are warning signs all over the place that they are not safe. Guess what – I wouldn’t even want to step close to the edge of the canyon anywhere!
It is hard to believe that in 1984 somebody proposed a dam to create hydroelectric power for over a third of Franklin County in which the Palouse Falls are located. Thankfully, the population preferred the uniqueness of this scenic landmark to cheaper electricity.
Little did I know – until I checked Wikipedia – that in 2004 white water kayaker Tyler Bradt created a world record in waterfall descent – here’s the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNXh9gXDd2Y&ab_channel=RiverRoots . (And I disapprove of talking on the phone while driving, and I have to tell you that he sprained a wrist and received “a massive hit” in the process of taking on the Palouse Falls). Nor did I know that the Falls are actually higher than the Niagara Falls. Nor that the Palouse Falls are Washington’s state falls. Nor that there is a rare marmot in that area – and I forgot about the rattlesnakes one might encounter in that area, too.
We easily spent an hour just around this stunning area. My bucket list is an item shorter now. But what a gain this one hour is to my memories! So, if you have a little time to spare – have a go at the Palouse Falls. I promise you – your experience will be absolutely unique.
Susanne,
Peg and I are going to have go visit the falls. I vaguely remember creating a video that told the tale of the ice age dam burst, which resulted in the canyons and gravel deposits. I think the client was WACA: Washington Aggregate & Concrete Association . . . 1988-89? I bet Peg and I would opt for driving and not kayaking. We hate to show up the younger generation. Thanks for the wonderful story of you and your husband and the falls. I love the photo with the river, and the little tiny people on the trail. Every Washingtonian should visit.
Don
Thank you so much, Don! By the way, if you drive out there, take the Vantage Highway and check the Gingko Petrified Forest on the way towards the Gorge! Oh, and did I say, you pass by George, Washington with the Martha Cafe?! There’s so incredibly much to see in this marvelous state. Have fun exploring! Happy weekend!
Susanne,
We had an excellent meal last night of pork loin, sticky rice, baked golden beets, tomato salad, and fake gelato for dessert. My cousin Lindy joined us by bringing the pork and the sticky rice. I shared your article about the falls and the three of us and possibly my sister will travel to the falls, George, Martha, and Ginko this summer. Thanks for the article and the video link.
Don
Don, this sounds like a delicious meal and some fun time! How fun that maybe all four of you will go and see the Palouse Falls.
I can’t tell you much about the Martha Café in George, WA (our friend Joe Boyle might, though). The Gingko forest is definitely a marvelous place. Beware though: Eastern WA features rattlers – haven’t come across any so far, but they are out there 😉 Walking sticks might come in handy.
Susanne,
We have reserved two rooms in Spokane Valley for our early June Trip to the Palouse Falls, we’ll be staying two nights and then going to the Gingko Forest. We’ll be staying in Ellensburg that night, so we have plenty of time. I think we’ll pack some walking sticks for sure. My sister and my cousin are joining us. My cousin, Lindy, graduated from Central (ages ago) and Peg and I visited Ellensburg many times in the 70s when we were involved with the Jaycees (headquartered in Ellensburg). You can expect to see articles on both the falls, and the forest. All because of your article for sure!!!!
Don
Don,
I’m utterly, totally thrilled! And I’m looking totally forward to reading your article and finding out about YOUR angle and how YOU liked it. I’m keeping fingers crossed that the weather will be just perfect, too! Happy weekend!
Susanne
Nice article, Palouse Falls is indeed a pretty place.
The concept of the glacial floods was originally proposed by J Halen Bretz back in the 1920’s. He also coined the term “channeled scablands”. He originally called those events the “Missoula” floods, though now they are commonly referred to as the “Bretz” floods to honor him. This flood concept was highly controversial at the time, but it took a long time and lots of effort by other geologists to eventually be accepted. The size, timing, and number of floods is still being revised today.
As an aside, one reason the floods were slow to be recognized is that the flood features are so huge they are difficult to recognize from the ground. When flying above them, they are more readily seen as ripples and scours common to flooding. Obviously, in the 1920’s air flight was rare so Harlen’s theory was less obvious to his skeptics.
LOVE your comment, Gary! Thank you. There is so much thrilling detail to a term like “scablands” even. Thank you, for giving Bretz his deserved credit. Of course, today’s satellite photos show the veracity of these scientists’ claims. How marvelous to come up with such thoughts in times of so little technological support …
For everybody interested in Washington State geology, watch the Nick Zentner videos on YouTube. He is a geology professor at CWU in Ellensburg. They are fun to watch. .
Another interesting place to see what the MIssoula floods created, visit Dry Falls. Just driving up through the lower Grand Coulee is amazing.
Thanks for the tip. The Dry Falls have been on our bucket list for a while now …
Susanne,
You have written another facinating article. I have been saving it for a future read as I have been busier than a 1 arm guitar player.
You may be interested to know that when I was about age 12, I worked in a fire works stand in King County for the man who founded two towns in Eastern Washington. Those towns were George, Washington, and Martha Washington. Martha, Washington did not survive, but George is still alive.
If we get a chance to meet for coffee, I have stories to tell.
Joseph Boyle
Wouldn’t that be wonderful?!
Alas, Delaware is a little out of my reach other than virtually 🙁
Still, I hope that I will hear some of your stories soon enough. Talk to you soo, my friend! 🙂