Across the Fence: (Wiener) Schnitzel

I’m pretty sure that everyone of you has encountered a schnitzel (pronounce: shnitsle, meaning chop) in their lifetime, either as a Germanism in the English language or as a dish on their plate. Though, funny enough, a lot of people think that a schnitzel is so much more German than a boneless chop. And maybe it is. At least, schnitzel is pretty much a standard item on most German restaurant menus and in probably every German household in one shape or another.

Schnitzel comes from the German word family of schneiden (pronounce: shniden, meaning to cut). A schnitzel is basically anything cut off something. It could even be a piece of paper. But we are talking the culinary world here. So, schnitzel is a boneless slice of something that is purposed to pan-frying – in the vegan/vegetarian cuisine it could be a slice of cauliflower, for example, or of kohlrabi. The very obvious, first thought would put schnitzel into the world of meats, though. Schnitzel could come from any farmstock animal, even emu, or chicken.

How to cook it? It’s usually tenderized by beating it quite thin. Then you either season it and fry it as a Schnitzel “nature” (pronounce it the French way, when you’re talking German!). Or you bread it. When I do this, I usually do it the classic way: cover the chop with seasoned flour, turn it in a beaten egg, then cover it with unseasoned breading and fry it in hot oil. It’s perfect when it is golden-brown and shows waves in the breading crust. Of course, you can also use panko, cornflakes, saltine crumbles … Whatever floats your boat. Just don’t wait for waves in the crust!

Now, what makes it a Wiener Schnitzel (pronounce: ‘veenah shnitsle, i.e. Viennese chop)? It’s the meat. Originally, a Wiener Schnitzel is made from a veal chop. Anything else breaded the same way is a chop Wiener Art (pronounce: ‘veenah art, meaning Viennese-style). The classic garnishing would be anchovies and capers along with a slice of lemon, potatoes, and a leafy side salad. These days, the anchovies and capers are most often skipped, the potatoes are mostly French Fries, and the side salad can vary as to style.

Of course, schnitzel would be only half as exciting if it only came the Viennese way. There are different sauces, toppings, even fillings that all give the schnitzel a different name. One spring classic is a schnitzel with white asparagus, sauce Bearnaise (which I always left out because my asparagus was sauteed in butter already), and potatoes. The Cordon Bleu (I won’t even try to figure out a transcription for the French pronunciation, but it means blue ribbon) is sliced almost apart, then filled with a slice of meager ham and one of cheese, then breaded. The only Schnitzel that you will find named for its size is the Tellerschnitzel (pronounce: ‘teller- shnitsle, meaning plate chop), a plate-sized pork chop Viennese style.

There even used to be restaurants in Germany that dedicated themselves almost exclusively to the theme of schnitzel. As schnitzel is not a regional specialty, it doesn’t matter where you might travel in Germany – you will probably find it on any German restaurant’s menu. Or simply try it out yourself at home. Here in the U.S., to get a veal chop for a Wiener Schnitzel, you might have to go to a real butcher. The flavor is worth the try!